The best things to see, do, and eat in Greece’s iconic capital city.

    Athens and I have been together almost three decades. Aussie-born with Greek roots, I was smitten with the rough-around-the-edges city the moment I stepped onto the airport tarmac and breathed in the steamy summer air. Sure, we share a love/hate relationship. Motorbikes blaring outside my apartment window drive me mad. Wonky sidewalks planted with trees make traversing the city center difficult. Summer traffic forces me to slow to a halt and swear under my breath.

    But then I escape the urban madness with a mind-cleansing dip in the cool, clear waters of Vouliagmeni Bay. I take a late-night stroll down Dionysiou Areopagitou Street and peer up at the illuminated fifth-century Parthenon. A friend invites me to her wine bar in the Acropolis neighborhood. And I find myself wrapped up again in Athens’ arms, oblivious to her maddening dichotomies. Blinded by her many charms. I can’t help but love this city, despite its flaws.

    So, here’s my guide to navigating the best of Athens, including the top things to do, the must-try restaurants, lovely hotels for any budget, and a few tips to help you artfully dodge the not-so-great.

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