A no-fly voyage across the North Sea offered plenty of time to meet fellow passengers before witnessing Norway’s natural wonders
I’m in my 30s, so a cruise felt like an experience to save for future decades. My holidays tend to be independently organised, and I assumed I would get bored on a ship.
But on a voyage from Southampton to Norway in search of the Northern Lights, my doubts were dispelled.
The 1,338-passenger ship, Borealis – with six restaurants, 11 bars and lounges, two pools, a spa and theatre – had plenty to keep me occupied during the two-day crossing towards Norway. Sea days also gave me time to mingle with other passengers, a broad sweep of generations, from 20-somethings to a few nonagenarians.
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Most were focused on the prospect of the Northern Lights – this year marks the peak of the 11-year solar cycle, with more storms and sunspots heightening electromagnetic activity.
The lack of airport hassle was also a big draw to this no-fly cruise.
As I walked into my cabin, I looked forward to making the most of it before a week of harbour cities and natural wonders. The bathroom had a whirlpool bath and I could look out for whales from my balcony.
The Borealis in Narvik, Norway (Photo: Fred Olsen)
With fares starting at about £1,000pp for 10 nights, including full board and drinks with meals, guided walks, shuttle buses to ports over a mile away from the docks, and gratuities, these cruises are pretty good value, particularly when visiting Norway, where a meal for two in a mid-range restaurant typically costs £100… without drinks.
The food was a highlight. Sea days started with breakfast at the Borealis buffet restaurant. Lunches included Ploughman’s boards and seafood feasts, which could be followed by afternoon tea.
In the evening, I mostly opted for the Aurora restaurant, which serves fine dining menus. Waiters knew our names and were wonderfully polite and helpful.
Saskia tackles some bingo int he top deck Observatory on the Borealis
One evening I enjoyed a fiery fish curry at Goan-influenced Vasco; another, chilli calamari at Asian-fusion restaurant Colours and Tastes (£15pp supplement in advance).
Our first stop was Alesund, a city of colourful Art Nouveau houses surrounded by fjords and mountains. I joined a boat excursion (£159) around Hjørundfjord, where wooden buildings were flanked by the Sunnmore Alps and majestic waterfalls.
Back in Alesund, I walked to the popular Fjellstua viewpoint from where I looked out to snow-covered mountains.
The cruise is designed to find the Northern Lights
We sailed north overnight to arrive at Torghatten and the Seven Sisters Mountains, but both sights were thwarted by fog. However, our crossing of the Arctic Circle was announced by the captain that afternoon, prompting cheers.
The weather was more of a concern at night, when I hoped we’d see the Northern Lights. Fred Olsen optimises chances by stopping in places with low light pollution and making announcements from the bridge when they’re sighted.
I saw them near the Arctic Circle town of Narvik. Watching green lights dance across the sky felt like an achievement.
We turned south after Narvik, heading towards Stavanger, Norway’s fourth most-populous city. My only complaint was that we didn’t stop here long enough to explore. I did enjoy local cider at Hanekam bar and picked up Christmas gifts at Syvende Himmel boutique.
The Borealis crossing the Arctic Circle (Photo: Fred Olsen Cruises)
With temperatures plummeting below 0°C in the Arctic Circle at this time of year, Borealis’s thermal suite is a welcome retreat, with a hot tub, heated ceramic beds, and two steam rooms (£25 per hour for couple; £15 for solo passengers). The top deck Observatory became my regular evening hangout for bingo, karaoke or the silent disco.
I had quickly come to enjoy the benefits of a solo cruise, from the many chances to meet other passengers to seeing so many destinations in one trip. Fred Olsen offered an easy immersion, and as it has many different itineraries, I could try another Northern Lights cruise and get to see new towns, cities and landscapes. It’s hard not to be tempted.
How to do it
The writer was a guest of Fred Olsen, whose 10-night ‘In Search of the Northern Lights’ cruise next departs from Portsmouth on 4 January 2026. Prices start from £1,099 per person.
