Words by Kalpana Sunder
Thai in Denmark? Few restaurants capture both the soul and sophistication of modern Thai cuisine quite like Kiin Kiin, Copenhagen’s Michelin-starred restaurant. Meaning ‘come eat’ or ‘eat, eat’, a phrase usually used by loving parents to their kids, it one of the few Thai restaurants outside Thailand to hold a Michelin star, and after one visit, it’s easy to see why.
Founded by Hendrik Yde Andersen and Lerthchai Treetawatchaiwong, now helmed by chef Dak Laddaporn Wichangoen, Kiin Kiin has helped transform its once-seedy corner of Nørrebro, into one of Copenhagen’s most gastronomically exciting districts.Â
Food is not only delicious, but is served artfully too
Today, the restaurant is not only a cornerstone of the city’s fine-dining scene, but is also a testament to how food can change a neighbourhood’s story. The restaurant mixes Thai dishes and spices skilfully using fresh Danish produce. Every year the restaurant is closed in July, when the chefs travel to Thailand for some new inspiration.
Dinner begins in a dimly lit lounge with wicker chairs, bamboo lamps and a mild fragrance of cinnamon and lemongrass in the air, that feels like more like a relaxing Thai spa than a Michelin star restaurant, with a set of playful and well- presented nibbles served along with cocktails and mocktails, before guests ascend to the dining room above. The menu offers only one option, a tasting experience (DKK 1,225), but vegetarians are  also well-catered for, with their own imaginative journey through Thai flavours.
Dinner begins in the lounge with nibbles
Our vegetarian options had some great starters served artfully, from charcoal soya meringue with cashew, smoky and crisp to crispy golden ball (that looked like Indian street food pani puri) with Massaman curry which was a joyful burst of spice and crunch. We also got a vegetarian version of a Chiang Mai sausage served on a charcoal grill at the table. My favourite was Miang Kam, a traditional lettuce wrap, with chopped shallots, garlic, roasted coconut shavings reimagined as a mosaic of sweet, sour, and heat. Each snack arrived as both a flavour and textural play, presented creatively.
We then went upstairs to the main dining space with golden Buddhas on walls and soft lounge music. Here, the meal unfolded as a series of edible vignettes, each one served on exquisite Royal Copenhagen porcelain. A vegetarian mushroom consome soup filtered in a coffee filter, with rice cracker, tofu, and pineapple ceviche set the tone – it was both earthy and sweet.
Next came a Thai salad with oyster mushrooms tempura, cucumber, mint, and coriander presented with a twist, under a gauzy veil of cotton candy, a theatrical flourish emblematic of Kiin Kiin’s style. The sweetness of the candy dissolved into the tangy dressing, a clever nod to Thai street food.
Each dish arrived as both a flavour and textural play, presented creatively
The aromatic yellow cauliflower with mushroom, broccoli, cauliflower, pickle cabbage and homemade rice noodles was the most comforting dish served in any fine-dining room in Copenhagen. Its creamy, sunlit curry and delicate noodles felt deeply familiar, yet paired beautifully with a Chardonnay that echoed its warmth and spice.
A luxurious Tom Kha with morel mushroom and truffle followed, layered with galangal and a silky edamame purée, a rich interpretation of the humble coconut soup. Then, stir- fried mixed vegetables with soy sauce, mushroom sauce, artichoke puree and jasmine rice grounded the meal-earthy, fragrant, and satisfying.Â
Dessert was a tropical feast of homemade vanilla ice cream served with almond cake, kumquat fresh passion fruit, white chocolate, crumble and passion fruit foam.
We ended the dinner with petit fours with a twist – chili and cinnamon chocolates disguised among real spices that summed up the restaurant’s mischievous spirit.
Playful elements like cotton candy add flair to already delicious dishes
Verdict
What we enjoyed about Kiin Kiin was that it did not feel pretentious or like stuffy fine dining. The atmosphere was casual, at the same time, Kiin Kiin remains one of Europe’s most distinctive fine-dining experiences, technically assured, bold, and joyful in its reinterpretation of Thai flavours.
As vegetarians we revelled in the vegetarian menu which, far from being an afterthought, stood as a vibrant journey in its own right: rich in texture, aroma, and imagination. Every dish shows the kitchen’s respect for Thai tradition.
At DKK 1,225 (plus DKK 995 for wine or DKK 595 for an inventive juice pairing), this is not a casual night out, but it is, one of Copenhagen’s most memorable.
If you find yourself in Copenhagen, do yourself a favour – go there and eat.
Factbox
Address: Guldbergsgade 21, 2200 Copenhagen N
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.kiin.dk
Imagery courtesy of Kiin Kiin