Skicircus Saalbach Trail Map | Image: Skicircus Saalbach Website
Report From January 26–28, 2026
There are ski trips, and there are ski missions.
Saalbach Hinterglemm Leogang Fieberbrunn, collectively known as the Skicircus, is one of Austria’s largest interconnected ski regions. Over 270 kilometers of pistes, four towns, multiple valleys, and enough gondolas to keep even the most seasoned skier checking the trail map twice.
Many visitors spend a week here and still don’t cover it all.
We decided to try anyway.
Saalbach, Schmitten, and Kitzsteinhorn combined panorama lift map | Image: Skicircus Saalbach Website
Over three days, we set out to ski the entire Skicircus and beyond, linking Saalbach, Hinterglemm, Leogang, Fieberbrunn, Zell am See, and even the Kitzsteinhorn glacier. What followed was a point-to-point alpine traverse filled with golden-hour descents, Kaiserschmarren stops, lively après scenes, and a staggering amount of vertical.
By the end, we had skied more than 170 miles and nearly 100,000 vertical feet and still left knowing there was more to explore.
Day 1: Kitzbühel to Saalbach, Crossing Valleys and Chasing Golden Hour
Our first look at Fieberbrunn from the top of the F2 gondola. | Image: Brett Ploss
We began not in Saalbach, but in nearby Kitzbühel. A short train ride took us to Fieberbrunn, and immediately reminded us that Austrian ski logistics are part of the adventure. The train station sits a good hike from the Fieberbrunn Bergbahnen. A ski bus runs direct a few times daily, but we opted for a local workaround: walking to the Co-op bus stop and catching a bus to the gondola base.
At S-4 Sports, we found one of the most useful travel hacks of the trip, large rental lockers (€15/day), perfect for leaving ski bags and changing into gear. Overnight bags packed for our two-night stay in Saalbach, we clicked in and headed uphill.
Fieberbrunn delivered a quiet Tirol morning, crisp corduroy, light crowds, and that unmistakable small-village charm. From here, the real mission began: moving valley to valley entirely on skis.
We linked gondolas E1 and E2, climbed onto chair E4, and descended runs 122 / 123 / 124 to the base of gondola E6, which carried us to the top of Reiterkogel, our first true gateway into the Skicircus core.
Skiing along a groomed piste on a south facing slope of Hinterglemm. | Image: Brett Ploss
From here we rode D2, traversed to B4, and rode it up to the north-facing side of the valley. The snow quality immediately changed, sheltered from sun and recent thaw cycles, the surface was chalky and confidence-inspiring. The kind of piste that makes you forget how many kilometers still lie ahead.
We descended into Hinterglemm, climbed A3 / A4 to Schattberg West, and crossed toward Schattberg Ost. Hunger had earned its place in the plan, so we stopped at SkyRest, a high-altitude restaurant where the views are as satisfying as the food.
Käsespätzle and Kaiserschmarren are two Tirolean staples, even though by this point we had crossed from Tirol into Salzburg region. Boundaries blur quickly when the skiing is this seamless.
A close up view of the town of Saalbach from run 1 down the front side under gondolas A1 / A2. | Image: Brett Ploss
From the peak of Schattberg Ost, timing aligned perfectly. Golden hour settled over the valley, and we skied runs 1 and 1a straight into Saalbach, finishing the day directly at Pension Enzian, our home for the next two nights.
Live music every night at Off Piste Bar in Saalbach. | Image: Brett Ploss
Après followed naturally. Bauer’s Schi-Alm was loud and surprisingly packed for a Monday. Tables full of locals, a DJ, ski boots clacking on wood floors. The town felt lively, social, and energetic, a theme that would repeat throughout the trip.
Day 1 Stats:
Our first Saalbach ski day January 26, 2026. | Image: Strava
Not bad for a travel day.
Day 2: Saalbach to Zell am See to the Kitzsteinhorn, Linking Three Resorts in One Day
Corduroy from first chair off gondola A1 / A2 while skiing down run 2a. | Image: Brett Ploss
With one day complete, we realized the mission was possible, but only if we moved efficiently. The alarm clock came early. We lined up for first chair on A1 / A2 at 8:30am.
Fresh corduroy carried us down run 2a to gondola I1 / I2, the eastern exit of Saalbach toward Zell am See.
Run 168 which was closed today due to lack of snow where skiers can typically ski directly to zellamseeXpress. | Image: Brett Ploss
From the top of I2, we aimed for run 168, the direct ski connection to ZellamseeXpress. But with lower natural snow and its south-facing exposure, it was temporarily closed. No problem. Frequent ski buses now run from the base of I1 to ZellamseeXpress, a smooth workaround that kept the journey continuous.
From the top, we stayed skier’s right to the Kettingbahn, rising to Zell am See’s mountaintop perch. From here, we committed to a long continuous descent, staying skier’s right all the way to the AreitXpress base. Rolling terrain, open sightlines, and the lake gradually appearing below made this one of the most scenic top-to-bottom runs of the trip.
A morning view from Schmitten of Zell am See covered by clouds. | Image: Brett Ploss
At the AreitXpress base, the Austrian bus system once again proved its reliability. Buses 660 / 670 run frequently, 14 minutes to Kaprun, or roughly 30 minutes to the Kitzsteinhorn glacier. We chose the glacier.
Having visited the Kitzsteinhorn in summer during the Leogang UCI World Cup in 2023, we had promised ourselves we’d return on skis.
Entering the Gletscherjet lift 1/4 after the 30 minute bus ride from the ArietXpress gondola. | Image: Brett Ploss
Four lifts later, including the Gletscherjet chairs, we arrived where the glacier skiing begins. Snow was plentiful, cold, and beautifully groomed. Wide pistes with consistent pitch made for effortless carving. Below, Zell am See sat wrapped in cloud. Above, jagged alpine ridgelines cut into blue sky.
Riding one of the many T Bars at the top of the Kitzsteinhorn. | Image: Brett Ploss
We lapped the extensive T-bar network at the summit, classic European glacier skiing at its finest, before transitioning onto the impressive 3K K-onnection gondola toward Kaprun.
Our view from the top of the Magnetköpfllift T Bar near the top of the Kitzsteinhorn. | Image: Brett Ploss
One Almbahn lap, then we descended to the Kaprun bus stop for the short ride back to AreitXpress. From there, we climbed again and skied all the way into Zell am See town, a niceand satisfying ski-straight-into-the-village finish.
We squeezed in a few sunny laps on the Sonnenalmbahn slopes, blue-sky cruising with lake views, before finishing with a descent under the ZellamseeXpress and hopping the ski bus back to I2.
A view of Zell am See and the frozen lake from halfway up the cityjetXpress gondola from town. | Image: Brett Ploss
Late afternoon delivered the perfect closing touch: the last A1 / A2 gondola back to Saalbach, rewarded with one final sweeping descent into town as alpenglow settled over chalet rooftops.
Day 2 Stats:
Our second Saalbach ski day January 27, 2026. | Image: Strava
A full alpine circuit linking Saalbach, Zell am See, Kitzsteinhorn, Kaprun, Saalbach in one day.
Not bad for a Tuesday.
Day 3: Leogang, Walleggalm, and Back to Tirol
A view from a lift in Hinterglemm under the afternoon sun. | Image: Brett Ploss
To complete the Skicircus, one region remained: Leogang.
First chair again on A1 / A2, down to I1 / I2, then up I4, and suddenly we were dropping into an entirely new valley.
Leogang feels different. Wider open slopes, dramatic limestone walls towering above, and some of the most striking mountain scenery in the Alps. The kind of terrain that makes you pause mid-run simply to take it in.
A morning view of the alpenglow on the mountains towering over Leogang. | Image: Brett Ploss
We systematically worked the sector, riding L1 / L2 gondolas, L3 / L4 gondola, and every major lift. Smooth groomers, steady pitch, and panoramic views made this a favorite segment of the entire trip.
From Leogang, we retraced our path toward Hinterglemm, eventually arriving at Walleggalm, one of the Skicircus’ legendary on-mountain après huts. Quiet on a Wednesday afternoon, but clearly built for weekend energy. Add a DJ, a crowd, and late-day sunshine, and this place becomes an institution.
Our final Kaiserschmarren at Enzian Hütte in Fieberbrunn. | Image: Brett Ploss
Another Kaiserschmarren was non-negotiable.
Then it was time to close the loop, heading back toward Fieberbrunn, skiing familiar runs in new light, and savoring the final turns of the trip. At Enzianhütte near the Fieberbrunn base, we fittingly grabbed one last Kaiserschmarren before stepping out of ski boots for the final time.
We collected our bags from S-4’s lockers, grabbed a €20 taxi directly to the Fieberbrunn train station, and boarded platform 2 east toward Innsbruckm, tired legs, full stomachs, and a mission complete.
Day 3 Stats:
Our third Saalbach ski day January 28, 2026. | Image: Strava
Total 3 Day Trip Stats:
- 171.8 miles skied
- 100,558 vertical feet
Across Saalbach, Hinterglemm, Leogang, Fieberbrunn, Zell am See, Kaprun, and the Kitzsteinhorn glacier.
We surprised ourselves.
Inside the Home of Lässig: An Interview with Paul Kubalek
A scenic church seen while skiing at Skicircus Saalbach. | Image: Brett Ploss
Beyond the skiing, Saalbach’s personality stands out. Lively but relaxed. Social yet sporty. A place where après starts early, but slope preparation starts even earlier.
We had the chance to get input from Paul Kubalek on Saalbach’s Digital Media Team to understand what drives this culture.
“Saalbach’s identity is built on movement, energy, and openness. We’re sporty, social, and slightly unconventional—a place where performance and enjoyment coexist…Simply cool & laid-back, or lässig as the Austrians say.”
That hands-on mentality shows everywhere, from lift connectivity to staff who take pride in keeping the system flowing.
“Alignment starts with a shared understanding of purpose. Every role contributes to the same guest experience. Keeping guests satisfied is the main goal of all our efforts.”
Much of that work happens long before the first gondola spins.
“I’m most proud of the invisible precision—the early mornings, the night shifts, the constant monitoring and adjustment. From avalanche safety to slope preparation, so much happens when guests are asleep. The fact that most guests never notice these efforts is actually the biggest compliment.”
Even with shifting weather patterns, the team adapts.
“We started at the end of November with lots of fresh snow and excellent conditions. Around the turn of the year, the natural snow situation was manageable, but our teams always conjured up the best possible slope conditions to keep our guests happy.”
And the future vision extends beyond lifts and pistes.
“Infrastructure projects are no longer just technical—they’re about sustainability, guest flow, digital support, and quality of life for locals. Saalbach has the opportunity to remain a high-energy destination while becoming smarter, more climate-resilient, and more community-focused.”
Final Turns
A view into the valley lookers right of Zell am See from Schmitten. | Image: Brett Ploss
Saalbach Hinterglemm delivers something rare in modern skiing: scale without chaos. A vast region that still feels intuitive. A party scene that doesn’t overshadow mountain culture. A lift network that encourages exploration rather than trapping skiers in one base area.
And after three straight days of valley-to-valley traversing, we left knowing we had only scratched the surface. More huts to visit. More ridgelines to cross. More après to experience. And an entirely different landscape waiting when summer returns.
Saalbach—we’ll be back.
Photos
One of the 60+ on mountain huts for food while skiing. | Image: Brett Ploss
A view of the town of Saalbach from the ski descent under gondola A1. | Image: Brett Ploss
A view of lift A5 from the peak where A2 meets and the Sky Rest restaurant sits. | Image: Brett Ploss
Fresh corduroy from first chair at the peak of the A2 gondola. | Image: Brett Ploss
A view of the wide evenly pitched pistes at the top of the Kitzsteinhorn. | Image: Brett Ploss
A view of the peak of the Kitzsteinhorn on a perfect winter day without a cloud in the sky. | Image: Brett Ploss
A view down the valley into Zell am See from the Kitzsteinhorn. | Image: Brett Ploss
A view of Zell am See including the lake from the cityXpress gondola. | Image: Brett Ploss
A view of the Goaß Stall near the base of the D1 gondola as one skis into Hinterglemm | Image: Brett Ploss