Breadcrumb Trail Links
Engelberg is internationally renowned as one of Europe’s top ski destinations Photo by Kempinski Palace Engelberg /Submitted photo
Article content
Part 2 of my three-part series on traveling through the Swiss Alps in search of the perfect ski resort brings us to Engelberg, a lesser-known gem with world-famous attractions, set in the stunning Canton of Obwalden.
Advertisement 2
Article content
As soon as you step off the train in the middle of town, you’re greeted by a charming blend of Swiss tradition and modern energy, including the famous Victorinox shop. History is everywhere, from three magnificent palaces to a 12th-century Benedictine monastery, and of course, some of the best glacier skiing in the world.
Article content
Article content
Engelberg is internationally renowned as one of Europe’s top ski destinations, offering guaranteed glacier snow and deep powder on Mount Titlis from September through May, one of the longest ski seasons in the Alps. Rising to 3,028 metres, Engelberg-Titlis delivers an impressive 82 kilometres of groomed trails, endless off-piste powder, and thrilling freeride terrain, something for every type of skier.
High-tech lift system
I was especially impressed by Engelberg’s high-tech lift system. The super-fast Titlis Express whisks you from the base at Gerschnialp to the mid-station at Trübsee (1,800m), then on to Stand, before continuing to the summit aboard the jaw-dropping Titlis Rotair, the world’s only revolving cable car. Tip: Stand in one spot as the cabin slowly rotates so you can enjoy a full 360-degree panorama of the Alps.
Your Midday Sun
Article content
Advertisement 3
Article content
If ski-in/ski-out is your dream, Mount Titlis has a fantastic hotel right on the mountain at Trübsee. Berghotel Trübsee offers slope side luxury along with a large chalet-style cafeteria and an outstanding restaurant. I highly recommend the five-star Atelier Hess, featuring inventive dishes by a Swedish executive chef, including eel spread with apple fennel on freshly baked sourdough and my unforgettable starter of 64-degree onsen egg with potato foam over spinach, topped with malt crisp. Couldn’t resist another glass of wine and Schnitzel (Viennese style) for lunch.
From Trübsee, the next station is Stand at 2,428 metres, followed by the Titlis Rotair to the summit at 3,028 metres. At the top I found true Swiss marvels, such as Europe’s highest suspension bridge, the Cliff Walk, which stretches over deep gorges and jagged cliffs at more than 3,000 metres above sea level. For another high-altitude adventure, walk through the Glacier Cave, a tunnel carved 10 metres beneath the surface of the glacier, surrounded by 5,000-year-old ice and sculpted formations. The turquoise-blue shimmer of the ice, the stillness of the air, and the sound of your own breathing create a surreal, time-travel-like experience.
Advertisement 4
Article content
For even more excitement, ride the Ice Flyer chairlift over massive glacier crevasses to “The Egg,” a famous viewpoint offering stunning 360-degree vistas of Mt. Titlis and the surrounding peaks. And yes, you must stop at the mountaintop chocolate shop, which serves some of the most mouthwatering treats you’ll ever enjoy at any altitude.
Unforgettable skiing
The skiing itself is unforgettable. Some of the steeper runs quite literally took my breath away, especially the longest descent, a thigh-burning 12 kilometres combining steep blacks, rolling reds, and gentle blues from summit to valley. That’s a vertical drop from over 3,000 metres to 1,000 metres in just over 30 minutes.
I also loved the red runs from Stand on Laubersgrat, followed by blue cruisers over Jochpass and a playful roll down Obertrübsee and Untertrübsee. And of course, I had to tackle the legendary Marco Odermatt Rotegg and Trübsee descent, unreal terrain, and all I can say is… I did it.
Advertisement 5
Article content
Beginners aren’t forgotten here. Across town at Klostermatte, Globis Winterland offers a welcoming learning area with magic carpets, a T-bar, and a ski kindergarten. Free town buses connect all major lift stations in minutes, and navigating Mt. Titlis is stress-free thanks to excellent signage and trail maps.
Non-skiers will find plenty to love too. At Trübsee’s SnowXPark, you can ride electric snowmobiles, moon bikes, and even a quirky tracked vehicle that looks like a mini snow gator. There are four toboggan runs, two slide parks, and a former bobsleigh track for adrenaline junkies. The Titlis Glacier Park offers snow tubing, while cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and winter hiking stretch for kilometres across the alpine landscape.
Engelberg-Titlis delivers an impressive 82 kilometres of groomed trails. Photo by Oskar Enander /Submitted photo
The town of Engelberg is large enough for long scenic walks, yet small enough to preserve its Swiss charm. Three former palaces now serve as luxury hotels: Hotel Bellevue and the Kempinski sit in the town centre, while Hotel Terrace presides high above like a royal guardian. I stayed in a luxury condominium at Hotel Terrace, enjoying a massive breakfast buffet and unique chef specials each night. And just off the lobby is Porico’s Pub, home to the world’s largest gin library — over 1,700 different gins with no duplicates, plus daily specials and sweeping views of Mt. Titlis. I did find some apres life but Engelberg is not known for it. However I did find a couple spots for champagne and treats on the park boardwalk in the Kempinski Palace and bottom of the main gondola at Gerschnialp. There’s a number of quality restaurants in town covering all tastes from traditional Swiss, European, Mexican and Sushi. It’s population is 4,000 residents in the summer then double in the winter so tourism is a main factor to their economy and they do it well.
Advertisement 6
Article content
For history lovers, the Benedictine Monastery is a must-see in town. Dating back to 1120, it is considered one of the earliest monasteries in Europe and is among the most impressive historical buildings you’ll ever visit.
Read More
-
Cortina is calling: Why Italy’s dolomite gem will captivate Olympians and tourists alike
-
Why Club Med Tignes is redefining the all-inclusive ski holiday
-
Glenn Crouter picks his two top European ski resorts based on value, scenery and vibe
Unforgettable sightseeing
Leaving any Swiss town, I had time to reflect as I waited for my next train to Andermatt, I realized how special the quiet town of Engelberg truly is with incredible glacier skiing, deep history, and unforgettable sightseeing that rival any major ski resort in the world. It may be smaller in stature, but it still delivers enormous value with big-resort amenities and shorter lift lines. In my opinion, all keys to a wonderful ski vacation.
Engelberg is one of those Swiss resorts you’ll never forget, and I guarantee you won’t be disappointed.
My third and final Swiss adventure takes me to the newly developing resort town of Andermatt, in the heart of the Swiss Alps.
Glenn Crouter, Ambassador for the Canadian Ski Council. 640 Toronto Weekend Ski Reports. Facebook & Instagram: @glennskigolf
The glacier cave is bathed in a dim turquoise-blue light. The air is so cold that tiny white clouds appear when you breathe. Photo by Roger Grütter /TITLIS Bergbahnen
Check out our sports section for the latest news and analysis.
Article content
Share this article in your social network