We asked Star readers to tell us about trips they have taken and to share their experience and advice:
Where Slovenia
When May 2024
Trip rating 5/5
What inspired you to take this trip? I had the opportunity to travel to a conference in Kranjska Gora, Slovenia, a resort town in the Julian Alps. I had always wanted to visit Slovenia. My grandparents met in Toronto after emigrating from Yugoslavia following the Second World War, my grandmother from Serbia and my grandfather from Slovenia. Before my grandmother’s death, which coincided with the start of the Yugoslav Wars, my grandparents would often travel to Yugoslavia. I knew I would need to extend my trip to include Ljubljana, Slovenia’s capital city, and Ptuj, known as its oldest town, where my grandfather grew up.
What was the best sight? The romance and history of Ptuj were breathtaking. I stayed at Hotel Mitra, a 250-year-old building with a pink façade, where each guest room tells a story about the town’s history and traditions. The steep walk up the cobblestone paths towards the grounds of Ptuj Castle led to incredible views of the town below and the Drava valley beyond. This medieval castle is probably the most recognizable landmark in Ptuj and dates to the 12th century. I admit, though, that I preferred crossing the Drava river to take in the castle and the skyline’s many red-roofed buildings from afar.
What was your favourite activity? Walking. Kranjska Gora and Ljubljana were easy to navigate on foot, but I especially loved walking through the narrow, winding streets of Ptuj, lined with cafés, outdoor terraces, shops and colourful buildings. I discovered something new around each corner — from medieval monuments to street art and poetry to an annual festival of Sauvignon wines in the Dominican Monastery — and I quickly got to know the town’s layout. I could imagine my grandfather in the many town squares, and I wondered if he’d ever seen a film in Ptuj City Cinema, one of the world’s oldest movie theatres.
What was the most delicious thing you ate? Dinner in Ptuj at Gostilna Ribic. I made the reservation in advance but incorrectly calculated the time difference, arriving an hour later than expected. The kitchen was already closing for the night, but they agreed to honour my reservation if I was prepared to enjoy whatever the chef wanted to prepare. This happy accident led to an incredible meal: sea bass with puréed potato and tomato alongside seaweed and shrimp, paired with an excellent Slovenian wine. For dessert, a pumpkin seed oil jelly was served in a meringue with pear ice cream and green apple jelly.
What was the most memorable thing you learned? I learned about the Kurent, one of Slovenia’s most traditional and iconic carnival figures native to Ptuj, where the Kurentovanje Carnival, celebrating the beginning of spring, is held every year. The door-to-door rounds of Kurenti, a traditional Slovenian Shrovetide custom, was inscribed on UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritage in 2017. Outside the Dominican Monastery in Ptuj, I met a man who dresses as a Kurent for the carnival; he generously took the time to guide me to the Kurentova Hisa (Kurent’s House) and through this local museum, sharing the cultural significance of the Kurent and these traditions from his own experience.
What is one piece of advice you’d give? Although everywhere I travelled was very walkable, the distances between Kranjska Gora, Ljubljana and Ptuj required travel by train, bus and (or) taxi. Travelling by train is a wonderful way to see Slovenia, but be mindful of the train schedules. Not all trains travel direct to your destination from Ljubljana. After missing the one daily direct train to Ptuj, I had to take three separate trains, arriving close to midnight after nearly missing one of my connections.
Kathe Rogers, Toronto
READERS’ TIPS
We’ve launched a series that invites Star readers to share places they’ve visited recently and would recommend, whether it’s a weekend getaway in Elora, a Banff canoe trip, or a jaunt to Paris or Rome. If you’ve been, loved it and want to tell us about it, we’d like to hear from you.
Email us with “TRAVEL TIPS” in the subject line at travel@thestar.ca.
Please include brief responses to these questions. If your holiday experience is chosen, we’ll be in touch.
1. Where did you go and when was it?
2. Where did you stay?
3. What was a highlight of your trip? Why?
4. Any travel tips?