Reader, you must know this about me: I’m an island gal. My family hails from countries in the Caribbean; I am used to the rolling, salty waves at a tropical beach, and up until fairly recently, it was hard to imagine another way to enjoy water.
Though I had heard of the wonders of Icelandic hot springs, it is another thing entirely to experience hot water in the cold. Iceland was an elusive item on my bucket list, particularly because my cold-wary inner circle of friends and family refused to go with me. So, when I had the chance to visit the luxurious Retreat at Blue Lagoon, perhaps not-so-coincidentally a week before my birthday, I jumped at the opportunity.
Just shy of an hour’s drive from Reykjavík, The Retreat is built on the peninsula of an ancient volcano, sustainably powered by the nearby geothermal Svartsengi Power Plant, and flanked by the milky blue waters of the Blue Lagoon. Those waters are rich in silica, microalgae, and minerals, all of which are embedded in the Retreat’s treatments (including their in-house skincare line, BL+). Despite the popularity of the Blue Lagoon, though, the hotel is highly secluded, with its own “Retreat Lagoon,” a private section of the Blue Lagoon waters accessible to guests of the hotel and spa visitors.
Designed in 2018 by Icelandic firm Basalt Architects and Design Group Italia, the hotel is home to 60 suites and is owned and operated by the Blue Lagoon, as is its sister boutique hotel, Silica Hotel. The property blends into its surroundings, with a sleek minimalist design that intentionally mimics the terrain, utilizing lots of raw concrete, dark natural wood tones, and grey hues. I was lucky to stay in the Moss Suite, with a balcony that overlooks centuries-old otherworldly lava fields. Highlights include a deep soaking tub and complimentary bath salts and mini bar, heated floors, and dimmable lights that casts an artful shadow of the ceiling fixture.
Upon our early morning arrival, the hotel staff led our group of four to our individual changing suites with private showers to freshen up and change into our robes. Fluffy white robes, I soon came to realize, were the default attire for visitors in the main lounge, around the spa, and even in one of its resident restaurants.
As we waited to check into our rooms, we enjoyed breakfast at the small and cozy restaurant, which is set improbably in the spa. The spa itself is peaceful and private, with treatments ranging from hot stone massages to sound bath healing. I started off with a resurfacing and sculpting facial to gently exfoliate and boost collagen. But of all the treatments, my favorite was the Floating Therapy: My guide wrapped floaties around my arms, my legs, my head, and covered my eyes before gently pushing and pulling me in different directions as though I were as malleable as a jellyfish. The feeling of weightlessness and sensory deprivation was both playful and peaceful.
If the spa was all about cleansing and renewal, the dining experience was more about indulgence. Highlights from our dinner at Lava Restaurant on our first night included a crispy-skinned duck with a sweet potato puree and a gingerbread crème brûlée that made me want to buy my own blow torch. The second night, at the onsite Michelin star restaurant Moss, we did the chef’s Kitchen Table tasting menu, which was a love letter to Nordic cuisine: We started with a tasting of sustainably sourced caviar, followed by a main course of fresh Icelandic cod and lamb and an assortment of desserts, including chocolates and macaroons, so intricately crafted that it looks like artwork. And if the night couldn’t get any sweeter, the staff left a delightful assortment of artisanal chocolates from the in-house chocolatier in our rooms. Connecting with water in this novel way gave new to meaning to the phrase winter wonderland.
Shelby is the Community Manager at Oprah Daily. She acts as a liaison between the brand and the membership base, Oprah Insiders. When she’s not working, she likes to travel, read, re-watch old sitcoms, and eat cinnamon-flavored treats.
