Malta is the perfect autumn escape. The weather is still tempting as average temperatures hover between 20°C and 24°C in October, and sunshine hours stretch to eight hours a day.
I’ve lived in Malta for 12 years. As a journalist reporting from the islands, my work has taken me into sleepy southern villages, historic harbour towns and the rustic, slower-paced corners of Gozo that many holidaymakers never encounter.
Visitor numbers are growing in Malta with more than four million international arrivals in 2025 compared with 2.7 million in 2019. Yet, most tourists still end up in the high-rise hubs of St Julian’s, Sliema and St Paul’s Bay.
I would suggest swapping the big resorts for restored palazzos and good-value guesthouses that offer a truer taste of life on the islands. Here are six of my favourites.
Floriana
23 Boutique Hotel mixes period details with Scandi minimalism
Valletta’s hotels can be costly, with four-star properties listed for as much as £350 per night. But there’s an alternative just outside the capital’s bastioned walls and past the Triton Fountain. The historic town of Floriana allows you to dip in and out of the city at your own pace. It’s photogenic, with Baroque architecture such as the Sarria Church and streets of balconied flats from which laundry dries in the wind, and exceptionally well-connected thanks to the central bus terminus – a blessing if navigating Malta’s roads in a rental car sounds daunting.
Best place to stay: On a residential side street, 23 Boutique Hotel is an 18th-century townhouse that pairs period stone arches with Scandinavian-minimalist design. The property is centred around an open-air courtyard and capped with a rooftop terrace, perfect for recharging after a day negotiating the capital’s flagstones. B&B from £110 per night. 23boutique.co/
Mellieħa
Head to the rooftop for a grown-up atmosphere at Maritim Antonine Hotel & Spa
For a northern Malta base that doesn’t feel like a holiday resort, Mellieħa is hard to beat. While many visitors come for Għadira Bay, Malta’s longest sandy beach, the old town retains a distinctly lived-in feel, clustered around a hilltop parish church and overlooking the coastline below. The beach is easily reached on foot, although you’ll probably want to catch the local bus for the steep climb back uphill.
Best place to stay: Right by the main square, the Maritim Antonine Hotel & Spa strikes a balance in appealing to both families and couples. While its lower garden levels cater well to the former, guests seeking a little quiet will appreciate the adults-only rooftop pool deck, which has sweeping views across Mellieħa valley. B&B from £95. Maritim.com.mt/
Għaxaq
To experience Maltese village life, head south to Għaxaq (pronounced ash-a). Radiating out from the imposing, 18th-century church of St Mary, this residential enclave has barely a souvenir shop in sight.
Best place to stay: Dating to 1755, Palazzo Castagna is right on the village square. It has been restored and turned into a handsome 26-room boutique hotel by husband-and-wife team Rudolph and Alison Spiteri Sacco. The 2023 conversion retained features such as lofty frescoed ceilings and a leafy central courtyard, while adding a sleek rooftop pool that faces the church facade. It makes a good base for exploring the Three Cities – Vittoriosa (Birgu), Senglea (Isla), and Cospicua (Bormla) – or the fishing village of Marsaxlokk. B&B from £120. Palazzocastagna.com/
Live like the nobility at Palazzo Castagna (Photo: Brian Grech)
Rabat
While day-trippers routinely choke Mdina’s narrow alleys, neighbouring Rabat comes into its own once the tour buses pull away. This ancient town is a maze of twisting backstreets, ornate shrines and traditional pastizzerias (Maltese bake shops specialising in a type of pastry called pastizzi).
Best place to stay: Tucked deep within these old streets, Casa Azzopardi Suites occupies a converted townhouse. Inside, exposed globigerina limestone walls are offset by patterned Maltese tiles, while the best rooms feature balconies with views of the streetscape below. It is well-placed for an early morning visit to the town’s catacombs and Roman sites. B&B from £95. Booking.com
Birgu
The original Knights of Malta stronghold across the water from Valletta, Birgu now offers a relaxed alternative to the capital’s tourist traps. The fortified peninsula is packed with medieval architecture, winding lanes draped in bougainvillea and a marina that has become the island’s superyacht hub. Here, you can enjoy Grand Harbour views without the Upper Barrakka crowds.
Best place to stay: Set just back from the marina, the 17th-century Palazzo Bettina has been converted into a boutique hotel. The highlight is its terrace, where a small rooftop pool looks out across the harbour bastions. Staying here makes getting into Valletta half the fun, with traditional wooden dgħajsa boats pulling up nearby to ferry passengers across the water for a few euros. B&B from £140. Ibbhotelpalazzobettina.com/
Xagħra, Gozo
Gozo is worthy of more than a day trip (Photo: Gregory Iron/viewingmalta.com)
Catching the 25-minute ferry across to Gozo reveals a greener, more rural side of the Maltese islands. While many mistake it for a day-trip destination, the real draw is renting a converted farmhouse. Sitting just uphill from Ramla Bay’s red sand beach, the village of Xagħra makes an excellent base.
Best place to stay: Rental specialist Baron Holiday Homes manages a collection of centuries-old properties in Xagħra. Hidden behind high walls, they retain carved stone staircases and come with private swimming pools. Days begin with a trip to the village square to pick up fresh ftira, a Unesco-recognised flatbread, before heading off for a coastal walk. Farmhouses from £150 per night. Baronholidayhomes.com/