Austrian Maggie Kompein, 21, has climbed the 40-metre endurance test-piece Speed Intégrale at Voralpsee, Switzerland, for her first 5.14d. Speed Intégrale, first ascent was by Cédric Lachat in 2010, has been several climber’s first 5.14d.
The first female ascent was by Babsi Zangerl in 2018 for her first of the grade. After her send, she said, “At 7 a.m., I finished my night shift at the hospital, and right after that, we drove to Voralpsee without any expectations. My energy was pretty low that morning, but somehow, the day ended with this crazy fight through such a big route. On my last try of the day, I did it!”
Then in 2022, Mel Janse van Rensburg climbed Speed Intégrale and became the first South African to climb 5.14d. It took the 20-year-old 22 days over three seasons. Rensburg was introduced to the route by Zangerl. “She convinced me that it would suit my style,” he said. “You have to climb it well enough to still have some energy to do the hardest move, and then still have enough in the tank to push through the last 20 moves.”
Kompein, who climbs on Team Austria, needed just six sessions to clip the chains. Earlier this season, she made quick repeats of In Memo Reini 5.14b and Schwarze Schwan 5.14b. Two years ago, Kompein stood on the podium at the Youth World Championships in China with a bronze. Follow her below for future sends.