Sep 24-28 2025
Every time I travel around the region, I am reminded just how poor regional air connectivity still is. This year especially, mainly due to my job, I have been travelling a lot across the Balkans, particularly to Skopje. And each time, I am stuck with the same two frustrating options: either drive through the endless Balkan mountains or spend 5-6 hours in Zagreb, just to get to Skopje.
This time, I chose to fly. So once again, I got booked to my usual Croatia Airlines route to Skopje via Zagreb, with a massive layover both ways. I was heading to a big conference.
First leg: Sarajevo – Zagreb
It started with a late afternoon flight from Sarajevo. That short 45-minute hop to Zagreb almost feels like a routine by now.
The weather in Sarajevo on September 24 was rainy and a bit windy. Croatia Airlines was (unsurprisingly) late again, but since I had a long layover ahead, I honestly did not mind. I have flown with Croatia Airlines quite a lot this year and, maybe just once, it was actually on time.
Sarajevo Airport is cosy and much better looking than what we used to have. It finally looks like a proper, although still small, airport now, with a nice shop and a few bars. In the quiet late afternoon hours, I grabbed a coffee and waited for the delayed flight. Some other passengers were not so patient and directed their frustration at the local airport staff, who just calmly ignored frustrated passengers since the delay was not their fault. I also met my colleague who decided to arrive by local Centrotrans Baščaršija – Airport bus: it is nice to have this option, but I keep forgetting, like many other passengers, we actually have a bus that can take us straight to the airport.
Eventually, Croatia Airlines arrived with an Airbus A319 this time. There were only around 45 passengers on board, so it felt spacious. Despite some turbulence from the rainy weather, the flight was uneventful.
We landed in a very busy Zagreb Airport with about a 45-minute delay. I did not have the energy to head into the city, so I pre-booked lounge access the day before for €25 (it is €45 for walk in). I would not be surprised if these prices go up soon, it is a pretty good deal.
Even though I like Zagreb Airport overall, the lounge is not its strongest feature. It is small, crowded and has only one men’s toilet, so hygiene is not that great. Still, the staff were kind and welcoming. I chatted with the front desk lady and some of the cleaning ladies. When I commented on how busy it seemed, one of them just rolled her eyes and said, “It is like this every day.”
After a few beers and two rounds of food, I boarded the flight to Skopje at 22:15. It was Dash and while most people dislike it, I actually do not mind this little aircraft. It is small, so it always feels full. I fell asleep shortly after takeoff and before I knew it, we landed in Skopje close to midnight.
I was completely exhausted, so I forgot to take any photos at Skopje Airport. But since the airport operates 24/7, there was still some activity even at that late hour.
Return leg: Skopje – Zagreb
On the way back, I had another long layover in Zagreb. This time, I took an early morning Croatia Airlines flight from Skopje. I was happy to see a new Airbus A220 and I even got an emergency exit seat- plenty of legroom!
Skopje Airport is pretty spacious, with a huge parking lot and lots of car rental agencies, but the food and drink options are limited. I was already half-asleep, but I enjoyed watching the airport slowly come to life as more people started arriving.
While waiting for my flight, five different people came up to me asking where the gates 205 and 105 were. For some reason, the gate numbering at Skopje seems quite confusing for those passengers. For example, gates 101 and 201 are across each other, but 103-105 are way on the other end, next to 205 and 206. Maybe it is time for Skopje Airport to rethink its layout?!
The Wizz Air flights to diaspora destinations seemed packed, but my Croatia Airlines flight had only about 30 passengers. Again, plenty of space. I fell asleep again and woke up in Zagreb.
Another Zagreb layover
It was 7:00 AM. Time for another 7-hour layover… I feel like this trip back home will never end!
Zagreb Airport was already bustling with early morning traffic. With not much else to do, I headed back to the lounge. This time, the front desk lady remembered me from my previous visit, four days ago. There was an issue with my pass, but she just waved me through – I guess we are amigos now. Thankfully, there is still no time limit in the lounge, so I stayed the full 7 hours trying to nap, eat, repeat… although it did not really work.
I watched waves of passengers come and go, ate multiple rounds of food, drank coffee (and beer) and waited for my final leg back home.
Finally, the little Dash to Sarajevo is here, but this time full. We’re leaving on time and after less than 45 minutes we touched the Bosnian ground.
Cold and rainy Sarajevo welcomed me and I went quickly through passport and customs control (although there is still no separate line for Bosnian citizens).
Beside the horrible long layovers, flights between Sarajevo and Zagreb feel like home to me by now. Although, I will be a bit sad once Dash is gone.
Sarajevo-Zagreb, see you again, I guess (already in 20 days!).
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