Recently, the Milan Public Prosecutor’s Office has put the Tod’s Group, the footwear, leather goods, and clothing manufacturer founded and managed by Diego Della Valle and his family, under judicial administration for alleged abuse of workers in its supply chain.
The Milan Public Prosecutor’s Office has alleged that the Marche-based fashion house facilitated illegal hiring practices in its production chain, with serious accusations linked to Chinese subcontractors and working conditions reported to be similar to slavery, with Chinese workers paid €2.75 per hour.
The day after the judicial measure was announced, the entrepreneur appeared before journalists in Milan to protest: “Ours is a group that is respected around the world, we fly the flag for ethical values. We are not those scoundrels. Prosecutor Paolo Storari should come and see our companies.”
During a press conference, Della Valle expressed his bitterness at what he called “a lack of respect” for the brand’s reputation. “Discussing Made in Italy seriousness with a light heart causes enormous damage. Legislate quickly to protect it,” he said, appealing to the institutions.
The central issue is precisely that of regulation: “We need a law that gives the supervisory bodies adequate tools and companies the opportunity to work peacefully. Made in Italy is a mark of excellence, let’s not ruin it. Let’s not give our leadership away to other countries.”
This is not the first case of its kind, but it has seen other companies involved in serious allegations, including the Armani Group, Alviero Martini, Loro Piana, and, also operating through Italian factories, Dior.
The Minister for Enterprise and Made in Italy, Adolfo Urso, announced an urgent meeting with the main fashion industry associations on October 15 to discuss legality, combating illegal hiring practices, and protecting Made in Italy, ahead of the Fashion Roundtable on November 17.
“The reputation of our brands is under attack. We must give a clear response,” said Urso.
In his meeting with Della Valle, the minister outlined a measure that aims to introduce preventive certification of the supply chain, managed by a third party, to ensure the full legality and environmental and social sustainability of companies. “This way, we can combat illegal hiring practices and reward those who follow the rules,” Urso explained.
The decision on Tod’s destiny will only come after November, when the Court of Cassation will rule on territorial jurisdiction.
“To think that there is illegal hiring in groups like ours is the biggest nonsense. Come and see our companies, do it as if it were an internship,” Della Valle insisted. “The current laws need to be changed: they were created to combat crime, not to target those who work honestly,” he added.
Meanwhile, in the surrondings of Milan, in Vigevano and Baranzate, labor inspectors have already visited the factories involved, describing harsh conditions. But the owner of Tod’s is not backing down: “Our world is not afraid of inspections. We may make mistakes, but never with fraud. We are just doing our job,” he added.
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