- Ouray is a backcountry ski paradise with access to both the all-terrain Telluride Ski Resort and the more advanced Silverton Mountain.
- There’s an in-town ski hill with 75 vertical feet, perfect for any less-experienced skiers in your group.
- The town provides old-timey Western vibes with historic hotels, saloons, and taverns.
- It’s also packed with hot springs, and visitors have plenty of opportunities for soaking, sauna sessions, and spa treatments.
Driving up on the Million Dollar Highway in Colorado—one of the most dangerous roads in America—there are no guardrails, and as you gain elevation, the side of the road plunges into a desolate valley of tall pines and sheer rock. For most people, the risk simply isn’t worth it. But, for intrepid backcountry skiers, it’s just another day getting to Ouray.
“It feels really wild, like you’ve gone through a time portal,” says Nate Disser, owner of San Juan Mountain Guides. Disser has led avalanche safety courses and backcountry ski treks in the area since 2002, though he explains the town’s history goes back much further.
The San Juan Mountains, known to their original inhabitants, the Utes, as the Shining Mountains, were home to some of the country’s richest gold and silver mines. In the late 1800s, thousands came to make their fortunes here along the scenic ridge. The roughly 25-mile stretch of Highway 550 connects Ouray and neighboring Silverton, home to the advanced and expert-only Silverton Mountain Ski Resort. For less experienced skiers, Telluride Ski Resort, on the other side of the mountain, is about an hour away from Ouray by car, and 59 percent of its trails are rated for beginners and intermediates.
Eric Kitayama/Getty Images
You can make trips to the other resorts, but Ouray is primarily a backcountry hub and an incredibly charming spa town with an unlikely location that even non-skiers can enjoy. Once you arrive and check out the wild mountain views, it will be obvious why this southwestern Colorado town is known as the “Switzerland of America.”
“There’s a sense of grandeur up there that’s almost unrepeatable in other mountain ranges,” says Disser. Indeed, the tall, jagged peaks surrounding the town have led to comparisons with quaint ski villages in the Swiss Alps. But unlike Switzerland, Ouray doesn’t require an eight-hour flight or even a passport to visit. All you need, says Disser, are skis and a willingness to connect with nature. That, and a tight grip on the steering wheel. Here’s how to plan the perfect getaway to Ouray, Colorado.
When to Go
Throughout the year, Ouray’s natural beauty attracts hikers to the trails for warm-weather activities followed by hot spring soaks back in town, but the ski season doesn’t start until December. You will have to wait until the end of the year for the best snow conditions, when companies like San Juan Mountain Guides start offering their tours and courses. Typically, backcountry skiers can enjoy the wild winter landscapes through mid-April.
Where to Stay
Xander Bianchi/Courtesy of Red Mountain Alpine Lodge
Red Mountain Alpine Lodge
300 yards off Highway 550, the Red Mountain Alpine Lodge boasts amenities like memory-foam mattresses and a chef. In addition to three private rooms, an upstairs loft provides sleeping quarters for up to 10 people. Downstairs, the living room features massive windows that immerse guests in the rugged scenery. While some backcountry huts require a full day of skiing to access, this lodge is suited to those who crave a remote feel but with a few added luxuries.
The Western Hotel & Spa
The Western was built in 1891 and features 16 Old West-inspired suites, each with a cozy fireplace. It’s also home to a subterranean spa with a large hot soaking pool, cold plunge, and sauna. Belly up to the bar at The Western Saloon & Grill, which serves craft cocktails and farm-to-fire steakhouse fare.
The Wyman Hotel
Courtesy of Bridget Burnett Photography
In Silverton, which has no stoplights and only one paved road, The Wyman Hotel offers a glimpse of local history. Dating back to 1902, the property now features sleek, contemporary rooms and amenities such as Tesla charging stations, while retaining original accents. Over the years, the building housed various businesses, including a ballroom and banquet hall, shops, a dentist’s office, and even a gas station. Your lodging options include suites with kitchenettes, traditional rooms with mini-fridges and private baths, and a bunk room that sleeps up to 10.
The Wiesbaden Hot Springs Spa & Lodgings
Courtesy of Wiesbaden Hot Springs Spa
If the idea of waking up next to hot springs sounds appealing, plan a stay at the Wiesbaden. This hotel in Ouray offers rustic rooms and a private cottage, though the main draw is the natural pools, which range in temperature from 101 to 108 degrees, and the vapor cave buried in the mountain. You can reserve your turn in the private outdoor spring if you prefer a more secluded soak.
Where to Eat
St. Elmo Tavern
Part of the historic St. Elmo Hotel in Ouray, this tavern was built in 1898. However, it has kept up with the times and trends and now serves farm-to-table Italian cuisine, including handmade pasta and gluten-free alternatives.
Outlaw Restaurant
When you’re traveling in the Western U.S., there’s nothing more fun than a saloon-inspired restaurant, and Outlaw Restaurant is a surprising upscale find on Main Street. Eat well from a robust menu that includes prime-cut steaks, Wagyu burgers, and Alaskan crab.
Ouray Brewery
It may not be the typical scene after a day on the slopes, but locals and visitors enjoy the laid-back atmosphere and fantastic rooftop views at Ouray Brewery. Try its award-winning beers while enjoying comfort food at the restaurant, which serves wings, classic burgers, and sandwiches.
Off-mountain Activities
Courtesy of City of Ouray
The area is small, so other than exploring the backcountry, there’s really only one thing we recommend: Relaxing like a pro in Mother Nature’s best hot tubs. Here are the town’s must-soak hot springs.
Ouray Hot Springs
The family-friendly complex in downtown Ouray features five different bathing areas, including a lap pool and an adults-only infinity-edge pool that gets up to 106 degrees. If that’s too toasty, there are kid-friendly pools with waterslides and an inflatable obstacle course open during the summer months.
Orvis Hot Springs
About 10 minutes outside of town, Orvis Hot Springs is a resort that offers accommodations and campsites. Several outdoor and indoor mineral pools and soaking tubs include the 40-foot Pond and the smaller, warmer Island Pond, which features a waterfall. The hottest pool is known as The Lobster Pot and can reach 114 degrees. Upon arrival, you might think you’ve been transported to Europe, thanks to the facility’s clothing-optional policy. A lush garden and sauna add to the retreat’s Eden-like calm.
The Wiesbaden Hot Springs Spa
At the Wiesbaden, an underground vapor cave offers a quiet place to sit and let the steamy waters (with a top temp of about 108 degrees) work their magic. The large outdoor pool is slightly cooler. Day guests can visit the vapor cave and outdoor pool for up to two hours. Non-hotel guests can also reserve The Lorelei, a private pool in an enclosed outdoor space, but the hotel recommends calling ahead due to limited capacity.
Courtesy of Silverton Mountain
Skiing and Snowboarding
One of Colorado’s smallest ski areas, Lee’s Ski Hill, located on 3rd Avenue in Ouray, features a free tow lift on a 75-foot slope. It’s open until dusk during the winter season, and a session on the hill might be the perfect compromise for novices traveling with more experienced skiers.
Meanwhile, the resort at Silverton Mountain only boasts one chairlift and limits the number of skiers allowed up. At nearly 2,000 acres, it’s the same size as a ski resort, with only a fraction of the skiers. Telluride is the largest resort nearby, with 148 trails across 2,000 skiable acres, plus 17 lifts that include two high-speed gondolas and three magic carpets.
Backcountry Skiing
While you can have a blast exploring downtown, the real reason to make a trip to Ouray is the backcountry skiing. This variation of the sport is sometimes referred to as off-piste skiing and is worth the extra muscle it takes to get yourself up the mountain without a lift—unless, of course, you employ the help of a helicopter. No matter how you do it, nothing beats the feeling of slicing through untouched snow, especially in Colorado, where you have some of the best powder quality in the world.
If you’re interested in hut-to-hut skiing, San Juan Hut Systems has 16 huts in the Sneffels Range along a backcountry ski route that you can follow between Ouray and Telluride. Reservations can only be made over the phone, and huts are equipped with cook stoves, wood stoves, and bunks.
Guides and Courses
While backcountry pros might be ready to take off into the mountains, if you’re a complete beginner, you’ll need an introductory course from an accredited guide company like San Juan Mountain Guides or Iris Alpine. Prices vary based on the number of days and whether gear is included.
If you have backcountry experience but would still feel more comfortable with a guide, Silverton Mountain offers spots in its daily guided groups for $249 and up. One of Silverton’s most popular offerings is the single heli-drop tour, which allows skiers to enjoy a single heli-ski run without committing to a full-day private tour.
While you can find guides offering introductory backcountry courses in Ouray and Silverton, there are no traditional ski schools here. Instead, you’ll have to go to Telluride for private or group lessons, which are available throughout the season for kids and adults. There are also daycare services, so you can drop the kids off while you hit the slopes.
Rentals
In Ouray, there are several shops where you can pick up your rental skis. San Juan Mountain Guides rents skis, crampons, avalanche kits, and more from its shop on Main Street. You could also visit Ouray Mountain Sports, which offers a wider selection you can preview on its website.