Fashion-forward Milan might not be the first place in Italy you think of when it comes to eating and drinking well, but the city has some serious culinary cred. As the country’s economic powerhouse, it has long drawn southern Italians and immigrants from around the world, so it should come as no surprise that they’ve brought their culinary traditions with them. Of course, Milan has its own gastronomic legacy — one that relies more heavily on butter and rice than olive oil and pasta. Dishes like saffron-tinged risotto alla milanese and panettone — the sweet Christmas bread studded with candied fruit — tell the story of Milan’s royal court, while rustic dishes like polenta and cassöuela fortified those who needed to work in the fields or stay out in the cold during the harsh northern Italian winters.

Milan is also a mecca for cocktail culture in Italy. Even if the modern concept of aperitivo traces its roots back to 19th century Turin, the Milanese have perfected it. Meeting up with friends for an aperitivo before dinner is a way of life here. Visitors will want to embrace the city’s sophisticated imbibing culture.

Who I am: I’m Laura Itzkowitz, a Rome-based Contributing Editor at Italy Magazine, where I head up coverage of hotels and accommodations across the Boot, and freelance contributor to Food & Wine, Travel + Leisure, Afar, and other publications. When I need a fix of Chinese or Middle Eastern cuisine, I take the train to Milan, whose restaurant scene is much more diverse than Rome’s.

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