Off the beaten path
Romania is a breath of fresh air, figuratively and literally. Where many of the places I visited in Europe – Rome, Athens, Paris, Barcelona – have you shuffling through narrow streets swarming with tourists and ringed by salesmen, Romania feels spacious and private. Like you’re the only tourist in town.
Walking down the wide cobblestone boulevards of the Cluj Old Town is a step back in time. All Baroque facades and neoclassical architecture, seasoned with Transylvanian detail and Gothic spires. A visceral and romantic clash of traditional Romanian roots with the grandeur of Austro-Hungarian occupiers. Not a drab communist apartment in sight!
No queues. No waiting for Insta selfies. And no endless sales pitches. Freedom to simply be in the moment.
Finding friendly foodies
In the cities, English is widely spoken. My brief encounters with the locals at the Statue of Avram Iancu, by the fountains in Unirii Square, in the bell tower at Saint Michael’s Church, were lovely. Gracious, family-first folk quick to humour and proud to show off their culture.
I immediately felt safe. I felt welcomed.
Romanians love food and their traditional dishes are heavy, hearty and hot. Local haunt La Roata lured me in with its thick, dark wood and convoluted collection of rooms under a low ceiling for a meal that was intimate and authentic.
A free shot of Țuică, a sharp spirit made from plums, was offered in welcome. A Transylvanian meat platter followed, offering pork ribs, marinated chicken, smoked sausages and beef Mici (a juicy, skinless piece of grilled meat). Tochitură Ardelenească (a pork stew thick with sour cream, polenta and pickles), Sarmale (cabbage rolls) and Ciorbă de Fasole în Pâine (bean soup served in a bread bowl) soon joined the fun.
Rural folklore
Hiring a car in Romania is cheap, easy and the best way to explore the nation, as Romanian culture is deeply tied to its rural folklore. The cities are good but the country is stunning, with rolling hills, medieval towns and natural wonders.
Near Turda, I discovered a 13th-century salt mine. You can head deep underground to not only find a museum, but a theme park. A breathtaking experience complete with a Ferris wheel, minigolf and a boat you can row 120m below the surface. There’s also Cheile Turzii (Turda Gorge), which offers sweeping views into a natural gully and a great hiking experience.
In Râșnov, a dilapidated citadel sits upon a hill and you’re free to climb up and explore the ruins. Sibiu has Piața Mare, its charming 12th-century town square. And everywhere, little farmers’ markets pop up with scrumptious street food.
My favourite experience, however, was Sibiel village in the Marginimea Sibiului region, a Unesco-recognised cultural zone. I was blown away by the rustic mix of Saxon-Transylvania architecture with mountain chalet vibes. Villages creep along streams into the Făgăraș Mountains, surrounded by forests, gardens and wildlife. Locals still dress in traditional garb and use horse-drawn carts; everything is handmade. It’s a fantasy novel brought to life.
English isn’t as strong in these areas, but the hospitality and humour are extraordinary. Do yourself a favour and hear the stories of bigger-than-life host Sorin at his Pensiunea Mioritica homestay. It blew my mind.
Ascending the Alps
Having seen city life and ventured into the villages, it was time for the mountains. Top Gear’s Jeremy Clarkson called the Transfăgărășan Highway “the best road in the world”, and I couldn’t pass it by.
Heading in from the north, you wind up a hill dense with tall alpine trees. Signs warn you of bears as glimpses of the view splinter through the tree trunks. Huge rock walls loom over you threateningly. Then it suddenly opens into a wide plateau. A large waterfall catches the eye, before your gaze turns to a stunning view.
Getting out to walk across the grass, climb the rocks and breathe in the crisp air is a visceral thrill. I’ll never forget standing at the top of the waterfall and letting the mist blow through my hair. But that is just the start.
The single-lane “highway” continues upwards into the clouds, hairpin after hairpin. Little eateries and stalls emerge from the grey like myths and legends come to life. You can imagine a gothic cart rumbling through, its horse panicked by chasing wolves and hounded by crows. Shadows flickering in the lamplight. This is it!
At about 2000m, you punch right through the Făgăraș peaks, the tunnel thick with mist. Then, light! You rush out into the Alps proper, winding for hours downwards, around lakes, across spectacular dams and more.
Sinking your fangs
On the other side of the mountains, the town of Bran sits beneath the shadow of “Dracula’s Castle”. It’s the only part of my Romanian experience that felt touristy but is a must-do, with the city a souvenir-laden homage to pop culture.
It’s not Vlad the Impaler’s real castle (long reduced to ruins) but it looks the part. Once a medieval Gothic fortress, it received a neo-romantic restoration from Queen Marie in the 1920s. Today, it’s a mix of museums, including a harrowing deep dive into medieval torture devices and a carnival-like wing devoted to Dracula movies. But it’s still very cool and, like the vampire, my memories of it will live forever.
Indeed, Romania was sensational. Great people, great food and truly stunning wonders, how has it been forgotten by the tourists flooding Europe?
Give it a go – in fact, sink your teeth right in.
The writer travelled independently.