I went to Malta and found a food scene worth travelling for

“What I had once assumed to be a destination geared towards older travellers revealed itself as something far more dynamic.

Arriving in Malta, having flown direct from Dublin with Aer Lingus, I was struck immediately by the shift in atmosphere. Leaving behind cold, wet Irish weather, the island greeted us with warmth and light, the kind that makes everything feel a little slower, a little softer. It is a small place by any measure, at only half the land mass of the Isle of Man, but with more than six times the population, and that first impression hinted at something more layered. Over the following days, it became clear that Malta’s real strength lies in how closely its food and culture are intertwined.

That connection revealed itself almost straight away when we stopped off at AYU – The Traveller’s Kitchen on our way to our hotel. The concept is rooted in travel and memory, and it set the tone for everything that followed. I opted for the butter chicken, served with steamed jasmine rice and paratha. It was rich, comforting and confidently executed, the sort of dish that does not try to reinvent anything but instead focuses on doing it well. It was a simple start, but an effective one, signalling that this would be a trip defined by flavour as much as place.

Our base for the visit, the Malta Marriott Hotel and Spa, provided a comfortable anchor between excursions, but it was out on the streets and in the kitchens where Malta really came into its own. We had access to the hotel’s M Club, a quieter, more exclusive lounge that offered breakfast each morning and complimentary drinks in the evening, a welcome retreat after long days exploring. The wider atmosphere around Balluta Bay added to that sense of ease, with a steady flow of people along the promenade as day turned into night.

Food, however, remained the thread that tied the experience together. Malta’s culinary reputation has been steadily growing in recent years, and it is not difficult to see why. The island now boasts 48 restaurants featured in the Michelin Guide, including seven Michelin-starred establishments and five Bib Gourmand listings, recognising high-quality cooking at more accessible prices. It is an impressive achievement for a country of this size, and one that reflects a dining scene that is both ambitious and deeply rooted in local tradition.

One of the standout meals of the trip came at 59 Republic. I began with mac and cheese bites, crisp on the outside and filled with creamy American cheese sauce, topped with bacon bits. It was indulgent without being overbearing. The beef medallion that followed was equally impressive, cooked with precision and full of flavour. It was the kind of meal that lingers in your memory long after the plate is cleared.

Not every dining experience was flawless. At The Chophouse my Iberico pork collar with wilted greens and plum and pork jus was enjoyable, but several colleagues had to send their meals back after they arrived cold. It was an unfortunate misstep, though perhaps a reminder that even in a destination on the rise, consistency still matters.

Beyond the city, Malta’s culinary identity becomes more personal. At Ta’ Ċiċivetta Farm, the experience felt less like a demonstration and more like stepping into a scene. As we were led past the farmhouse and into its outdoor space, the atmosphere shifted. Two older local musicians played guitar and mandolin, moving effortlessly from Abba to Engelbert Humperdinck as we sampled local wines. It felt, quite literally, like walking onto the set of a cooking show.

We were soon put to work, making ftira and ravioli by hand. While the seafood-based ftira was not to my taste, the ravioli-making was both enjoyable and surprisingly satisfying. There is something about preparing food in that setting, surrounded by music and conversation, that brings a deeper appreciation for what ends up on the plate. Even if my attempts looked a little rustic, they tasted all the better for it.

We had a more modest experience at Ta’ Zeppi Farm, where we sampled a range of local cheeses. While the setting itself did not entirely convince me, one particular highlight stood out with a pecorino matured in wine, which delivered a depth of flavour that was hard to ignore.

Wine, in fact, became an unexpected highlight of the trip. At Ta’ Betta Wine Estates, we were introduced to the island’s growing reputation for quality production. Until recently, I would not have chosen red wine, but that has begun to change. Tasting through the selection here, I found myself drawn to the reds, particularly the Antonio Manoel, a blend of 60 per cent Merlot and 40 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon. It was smooth, balanced and easy to enjoy, and learning about the care and process behind each bottle gave me a new appreciation for what goes into winemaking in Malta.

Much of Malta’s cultural identity is anchored in its capital, Valletta, a city that rewards wandering. Walking through its narrow streets on a midweek morning, I was struck by how busy it was. The blend of traditional shops and familiar high street names gives the city a lived-in feel rather than something preserved solely for tourists.

At its heart sits St John’s Co-Cathedral, and stepping inside is an experience that stops you in your tracks. The baroque interior is breathtaking, an intricate display of gold, marble and artistic ambition. It is unapologetically opulent, almost theatrical in its scale and detail, and it brought to mind the bold aesthetic of Versace. Among its treasures are two works by Caravaggio, adding further weight to a space already steeped in history.

Elsewhere, even familiar comforts carry a Maltese twist. A visit to The Dubliner offered a taste of home, with classic Irish pub food and a warm welcome from staff, including Stacey from Finglas, who came to Malta on holiday and decided to stay. Stories like that seem to surface often here, reinforcing the island’s quiet pull.

The cultural journey continued in Mdina, often referred to as the Silent City. Walking through its narrow, historic streets felt almost cinematic, as though stepping onto a film set. The quiet, the architecture and the sense of history combine to create an atmosphere that is both calm and immersive, and it is easy to see why it has become a popular location for film productions.

Throughout the trip, our guide Stanley Cassar Darien provided both insight and humour in equal measure. A seasoned guide whose previous clients include Meghan Markle, he had a way of making Malta’s history feel accessible. His opening line, delivered on our journey from the airport, set the tone perfectly: “In Malta, we don’t breed like rabbits, we just eat them.”

By the end of the trip, my perception of Malta had shifted entirely. What I had once assumed to be a destination geared towards older travellers revealed itself as something far more dynamic. For those willing to explore beyond the surface, Malta offers a rich blend of gastronomy and culture, where every meal tells a story, and every street carries a sense of history.

Aer Lingus recently announced the Mediterranean island of Malta as the latest destination for its exclusive Avios-only flights, as the airline opens up sun-soaked getaways for its most loyal customers.

Departing from Dublin on Saturday, August 1, 2026, and returning one week later on August 8, the flights are exclusively available to AerClub members and have been chosen to make Avios redemptions even easier during peak school holidays. The flights also offer greater access to one of the fastest-growing destinations for Irish holidaymakers.

Return flights, on sale now, can be booked for just 20,000 Avios per person, plus taxes, fees and carrier charges.

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