Olympic climbing champion Alberto Ginés has decided to end his time at the High Performance Center in San Cugat. After thirteen years under the guidance of David Maciá, the athlete will move to Slovenia to train with Roman Krajnik, the coach of Janja Garnbret. This move reflects the lack of high-level resources in Spain for an elite athlete to continue competing at the highest level.
The technical leap towards a new training system 🧗
The change involves a radical adaptation in his methodology. Krajnik is known for an approach based on biomechanical data, load periodization, and real-time video analysis, something uncommon in Spanish centers. While San Cugat prioritized training volume on rock, Slovenia focuses on high-intensity bouldering sessions and specific endurance work on long routes. Ginés will have to assimilate a new technical language and stricter recovery routines to optimize his performance.
The move that highlights the Carrefour model of Spanish sports 🇪🇸
In other words, to keep climbing like an Olympian, our champion has to go to a country with less sun and more fog. So, in Spain we have high-performance centers, but it seems that high only refers to altitude. Meanwhile, we’ll keep debating whether climbing is a sport or a weekend hobby. Good luck, Alberto, hope they don’t charge you extra for the move.
