Spa is about an hour’s drive by car from USAG Brunssum or Geilenkirchen (Katie Wells)
Before spotting Spa on the map during a road trip through Benelux, the only thing I knew about it was that it had lent its name to the famous Circuit de Spa-Francorchamps racetrack nearby, and that maybe it had something to do with water and wellness. Always up for learning more, and in need of a lunch spot, my friend and I decided to stop.
We set our GPS destination to what appeared to be the town’s center. Directional signs were abundant and angled street parking made finding a spot a cinch. We soon found ourselves in Place Royal, Spa’s main public plaza, which is lined with terrace cafes, boutique shops and the recently renovated ancient thermal baths (now a five-star hotel).
We soon found ourselves in Place Royal, Spa’s main public plaza, which is lined with terrace cafes, boutique shops and the recently renovated ancient thermal baths (now a five-star hotel). (Mandy Mills)
After getting our bearings and admiring loads of cute doggos out for walks with their people, we decided to go as off the beaten path as our stomachs would allow. Tens of steps down Rue Delhasse, we spotted the cutest storefront filled with teapots, fairy lights and Easter decorations.
My high school French vocabulary kicked in enough to know that inside Little Arthur tarterie sucurée & salée we would find both sweet and savory items, and did we ever! My friend opted for the classic savory Quiche Lorraine while I went for both sweet and savory with a duck, onion and raspberry combo. We were both surprised (and delighted) with the fresh mixed side salads that accompanied our choices. Feeling satisfied, but not too full, we ventured out again.
Thanks to the multitude of informational signs (helpfully written in all three of Belgium’s official languages and English) we learned that the entire wellness industry very likely sprang from this picturesque town. There are over 300 naturally sparkling springs, or pouhons, in and around Spa. Pouhon Pierre-le-Grand was named for Czar Peter I of Russia who visited in 1717 and was said to have been cured of liver disease by drinking the iron-rich water. Unfortunately for us, our own various ailments and thirst for knowledge, the building was closed. Check the tourism website for seasonal hours and bring a one euro coin if you want to access the spring to taste its healing waters.
My high school French vocabulary kicked in enough to know that inside Little Arthur tarterie sucurée & salée we would find both sweet and savory items (Mandy Mills)
Our disappointment was quickly forgotten when we popped into Maison Demartin just across the street and purchased what felt like one of everything from their artisan chocolate counter. The chocolatier, Sophie, was very friendly and we couldn’t believe how many of her exquisite pralines fit into the 250g box we purchased. She just kept adding them and adding them. She even gave us a couple of little chocolate eggs that weren’t perfectly shaped (in her mind) as free samples.
We needed to get back on the road, but we’d barely scratched the surface of Spa. Spa is about an hour’s drive by car from USAG Brunssum or Geilenkirchen, around an hour and a half from the Brussels region, and about two hours from SHAPE or Chièvres. That makes it an easy choice for a day trip—or, if you have the time, a quick overnight getaway.
Spa Highlights
Les Thermes de Spa is a modern thermal complex that still uses natural mineral waters from three separate springs. You can take the funicular up from Place Royale or drive and park in their pay lot. Admission gets you access to 800 square meters of indoor and outdoor baths, saunas, hammams (Turkish baths) and relaxation areas. Sorry kids, it’s only for ages 15 and up. If you’re looking for a proper spa day rather than just a quick peek at Spa, this is the place to do it.
Want to know more about how Spa became, well, spa? The Musée de la Ville d’eaux (Museum of the City of Water) is in the former Royal Palace and digs into the history of the city and its famous waters. And if you happen to be there on the second weekend of the month, you can also visit the royal stables, which are now a museum dedicated to all things equestrian.
Have you ever stopped to think about how people managed to get their laundry clean before soap and washing machines came along? Me neither, but now I’m curious! Spa’s Museum of Laundry and Laundry Life has all the dirty details.
Can you find all 12 Pierrot sculptures scattered around town? (Mandy Mills)
If museums aren’t really your thing, there are also plenty of self-paced walking tours that let you explore the city at your own pace, or you can do it my favorite way: simply wander. Can you find all 12 Pierrot sculptures scattered around town?
For longer trips, Spa makes a great base for getting out into the Ardennes, where there are hundreds of kilometers of hiking and biking trails to explore.